The Albanian Alps

October 4, 2023 - View on Valbonë valley from Valbonë-Theth pass viewpoint, Albania

After Hungary a.k.a. Magyar, it was off to Albania a.k.a. Shqiperi. (Wouldn't you think the names we call these countries be what they, themselves call it? Still odd to me.) The plan was to break Albania in two parts, hiking in the North and the beaches in the south, with a trip to Kosovo in the middle. We didn't initially plan much time in the Capital city of Tirana because I was anxious to get up into the mountains for hiking before we got any later into the season, but we both quickly realized that it was a place we wanted to try to circle back to later in the trip. 

In Tirana, we discovered that we are big fans of Albanian food and drink. Not only is it super fresh with lots of veggies and salads, but there is also cheese with just about every meal. I love cheese. It is also very affordable, with a drink of the local brandy, Raki, or a huge glass of wine with your meal for 100 lek ($1). We did a walking tour and I visited the Bunk'Art museum that documented the communist rule to learn a bit more about the history.  Like everywhere, such a fascinating story that I knew almost nothing about. Our tour guide told us that Albania through the '60s, '70s, and '80s was as isolated from the outside world as North Korea is today. There were no imports, people weren't allowed in or out, and all media from the outside world was completely blocked. They also shared with us that, in 1991 when they gained their independence, no one in the county knew what a banana or pineapple were or how to eat them. The fruit vendors offered tutorials on how to eat the new foods.

With random bunkers strew about the city, blocks sharing both a Mosque and a Catholic church, and old men sipping on espresso and Raki at all hours of the day, Tirana had a unique charm that we really hadn't found the likes of anywhere else. But alas, time was short and we boarded a bus headed North to the mountains. 

I had mostly seen pictures of the Albanian coastline, but when we started researching what one does in Albania, there were so many popular hikes in the North that we knew we needed to check them out. We had found some self-guided hiking tours to the tune of €950, but with a little elbow grease, I was able to build it out myself for about  €250. Starting in the city of Shkodër as a home base to leave our giant bags (that have only grown as we've added on additional warmer clothing), we would be doing a 6-night loop that included stops in the Shala River, Valbonë, and Theth. 

Shala River felt like a hidden gem of a place, made even more special by how difficult it is to get to. After a 2-hour minibus from Shkoder to the Komani Lake ferry terminal, we boarded a small boat with a few others to make the hour journey across the lake to arrive in Shala River. With just a few days left in the season, we got the tamed-down version of the party that the day-trippers usually bring in, with competing music blasting from the various guesthouses while everyone lounges in the sun and maybe even braves a dip in the freezing cold, crystal clear water. After 3 p.m., when the last day trip tour has left, the energy shifts and you have a few hours leading up to sunset to appreciate the sheer beauty of the place. Eating whole, grilled trout straight from the river and sharing a Raki with the locals under the setting of a river canyon added up to a memorable stop. After 2 nights of relaxing at the river, it was back on the boat to catch the big, 3-hour ferry to the next stop, Valbonë. 

In Valbonë, we attempted (Johnny successfully) to summit Rosni, a peak just over the border in Montenegro. A 16.6 km (10.3 miles) out and back that included a straight-up ascent of 1530 m (over 5000 ft), it is not for the faint of heart. Johnny usually hikes ahead of me at a faster pace, occasionally waiting at a strategic viewpoint where he can check on my progress before disappearing over a ridge, but as we got over 8000 ft, I started to feel...off. He was pulling further and further ahead while my feet started to feel like they were in cement blocks. I kept trying to push on to make it to the top, but when I got lightheaded and started to puke, I knew something was wrong. Johnny found me on his way down, about 10 minutes from the summit, still trying to make it but not being able to go more than 3 steps without having to stop for a break. He stayed with me as we started down and after another round of puking and having to lay down for a few (of which Johnny took it upon himself to take a photo, thanks Johnny), we finally got low enough that I started feeling better. I didn't know altitude sickness could hit you at 8000 ft, but with such a large elevation gain and with me having done essentially no cardio in the last year, it hit me badly. Luckily I got close enough to the top to cross into Montenegro and get the views. Despite the difficulties I had near the peak, once we were at lower elevations I felt like my old self so we went forward with the plan to hike the pass the next day.

The Valbonë to Theth hike over the pass is particularly famous as part of the Peaks of the Balkans trail and one of the main tourist attractions during the summer months. I was grateful to miss both the hot weather and the crowds, and the steep climb to the pass was well worth the view. It was then down the other side, into the town of Theth. Most known for the blue eye, a stunning waterfall, Theth isn't much more than a sleepy mountain town tucked into the Alps. We headed to check it out the next day, and Johnny actually braved the freezing cold water and got in. I had every intention, but when I stuck my feet in up to my calves, I decided that was enough for me. We had hiked the 5.5 miles (9km)to the waterfall, but when we were headed back and there was a shuttle option waiting in the parking lot to take people back to town, I hopped on while Johnny opted to stay back and have a beer on the river. Little did he know the adventure he was about to have. 

While Johnny sipped on beer and raki enjoying the mountain view, time got away from him and before he knew it, it was nightfall. Not a problem for Johnny as he had his headlight packed and was happily trail-running his way back in the dark. While en route, he heard a shout from the woods about 40 meters off the trail. Pointing his light into the trees, these two girls came stumbling out, one collapsing in tears of relief at the sight of him. Apparently, these two young ladies from Dubai had never been hiking before and decided to set off to the waterfall at 4:30 in the evening. With no flashlights and dead cellphones, they had somehow lost the trail in the dark and were completely turned around, wandering aimlessly in the woods. Johnny led them the 30 minutes back to town and dropped them in the first hotel to use a phone charger so they could reunite with their group. Meanwhile, I was sitting at a restaurant the whole time, totally unaware of Johnny rescuing damsels in distress in the Albanian Alps. 

The next day it was a mini-bus back to Shkodër to reunite with our suitcases. We took a few days to do some much-needed laundry and check out the local sites, including a bike ride to Shkodra Lake and up the hill to Rosafa Castle. Knowing we'd be back to Albania to check out the South in the coming weeks, it was now off to country #16, Kosovo.